PCT Day 37 – PCT mile 510.9 to mile 529.3 via Hikertown and LA Aqueduct

May 11, 2026

Total PCT miles: 18.4

Non PCT miles: 0.0

Total: 18.4 miles / 29.6 km

Total elevation gain: 1654 ft

Total elevation loss: 2589 ft

Steps: 46456

Today was just wild and full of iconic PCT experiences. I woke up and was on trail by 5am in order to beat the heat into Hikertown. The trail takes the most ridiculously classic PCT “scenic” route through the foothills. I spoke to several people later in the day who chose to road walk the more direct route instead. As the sun crested the mountains on the other side of the valley I was treated to a absolutely breath taking sun rise. That almost made the scenic route worth the effort.

The plan today was to see Hikertown, an icon stop on the PCT, but spend most of the day at a nearby cafe. There we could enjoy some real food, hopefully top up our snacks, and wait out the hottest part of the day. The cafe is about 4 miles down the road from Hikertown and Far Out had a number to call to arrange a ride. When we got to the highway Ness called them and it was very difficult to understand the person on the other end. No ride was arranged and she kept insisting she couldn’t make food because she had no tortillas. We decided our next best step was to go to Hikertown to see if a ride could be arranged from there. Maybe we might have to go to Lancaster if there was no food to be found.

Hikertown is located just before hikers begin the infamous Los Angeles Aqueduct section of the Pacific Crest Trail, they arrive at a place that almost feels like it shouldn’t exist in the middle of the Mojave Desert.

Hikertown is part hostel, part movie set, part junkyard, part trail oasis, and part complete mystery. For decades it has become a legendary stop for PCT hikers. Many hikers rest here during the heat of the day before beginning a night hike across the aqueduct.

The property itself is unlike anywhere else on trail. Small themed buildings are spread around the grounds like an old western movie set. There is a sheriff’s office, schoolhouse, saloon-style structures, and tiny cabins pieced together from a strange mix of old props, recycled materials, trailers, and desert creativity. Some hikers love it. Others find it deeply strange. Nearly everyone has a story about it afterward.

I walked aimlessly around the property admiring this chaotic place I’d read so much over the years when I ran into the owner. Hikertown was created by Richard Skagg who is or was a television and film producer. We inquired about the nearby store possibly having no food and about getting a ride to check it out. Richard owns the store and said that’s ridiculous there absolutely is food. He left and made a phone call. Less than a minute later he returned and said there is food she just can’t make burritos. He then proceeded to hand me a set of keys saying “you have a license right?” I was confused, maybe he wanted me to drive him there, I mean he is an elderly guy, but then he proceeded to tell me to follow him to the store in a grey Dodge Ram.

So here I am in the absolute middle of nowhere getting into a vehicle owned by a Hollywood producer who has known me for all of 30 seconds and driving it to the store. I have no idea if it’s insured, if it’s registered but I can tell pretty quickly it’s not the safest vehicle on the road. It pulls hard to the left, the shocks are done and the driver side door doesn’t feel like it closes completely. Fortunately the store is only a few miles away. Unfortunately he didn’t let me drive the Ferrari parked next to his house. I am however completely flabbergasted and outright confused on what has just transpired.

On the way to the store I picked up two other hikers. Marble and Sonya and recounted my story on the way to the Store. Neither were really surprised as apparently this is just something he does.

The store did have food – breakfast and lunch was had but the resupply options were very very limited. But I was only in need of snacks and I could make it work. I asked Richard if I could use the truck later to pick up some friends at the trail head and he was good with that. He also told me to take a nap in the back building and relax. After I ate breakfast we sent a message to the rest of the group telling them to let me know when they were close to the trail head and I would come pick them up in a truck and that I would explain then.

I sat around listening to Richard tell stories about Hollywood stars and Presidents (with photo evidence to back it up) until he left to go to town. He has certainly lived a full life.

The rest of the group arrived at the trailhead around 11:30 and I met them there with the truck I had acquired and cold cola and recounted the story of this mornings events as I drove them to the store.

We spent the afternoon relaxing and trying to get some sleep for tonight’s night hike of the LA Aquaduct section. We probably should have started earlier but we finally got packed up to leave to store around 17:30 and I drove us all back to Hiker Town. I gave Richard his keys back and he actually thanked me for driving ourselves to and from the store. Before we left he recounted the story of how he and his wife became unsuspecting trail angles to a bunch of “homeless” kids after buying this property not knowing the PCT ran directly through it. I feel blessed to have had the chance to meet this man and part of me wishes I could have stayed here for a while but I’m not sure I would have ever escaped the vortex.

We set off around 1900 for the LA aqueduct as the sun was beginning to set. The walk started with lots of energy and excitement. There was a mind blowing sunset that turned into glowsticks, dancing and music. As the night went own fatigue set in hard accompanied be the pain of basically walking on concrete for hours. This was embracing the suck, a march of zombies pushing themselves until finally someone said no more. At midnight we set up camp just off the side off the road. I was exhausted, nauseated, hungry with no appetite and crawled into bed as soon as possible. There would only be a few hours of sleep tonight and I wanted every minute possible.