Today was the first time I have had the esteemed pleasure of suffering through rain while on the PCT and boy did Mother Nature not disappoint.
Because I knew it was going to be cooler and cloudy I slept in today and started hiking at 0715 instead Of 0600-0630. I know I shouldn’t be so kind to myself. There isn’t much water on this stretch so I’m quite happy with the cooler temperature (high of 10 celcious). The forecast was calling for a 30% chance of rain totaling about 3mm. This is part of a much larger weather system bringing a non insignificant and much needed snow in the sierras.
It started out so nice outside
The morning went by quickly. I crossed paths with a hiker I’ve named rocket man. He’s a 67 year old Asian man who has one speed and swears a lot. He is doing a few hundred mile section hike so he typically only spends 1/2 the day walking.
Water tanks
My first stop of the days was at Mikes place. Here you can fill up on water. In some years the owner or a care taker is around and pizza can often appear. Unfortunately this is not one of those years. But fortunately as I was leaving a trail angle named One Way Mike showed up in his truck with an amazing assortment of drinks and food. He wasn’t prepared for the cold so he was wearing a garbage bag turned into wind breaker.
One Way Mike!
Soon the clouds rolled in and enveloped us and the rain began to fall. Because of the weather he wasn’t likely to stay long so I was really lucky to partake in this trail magic!!!
From mikes it’s pretty much downhill the rest of the day from 5500 ft to 3500ft. I need to be more careful on the downhill, evenmore so when the view of the trail is obscured by growth and you can’t see all the rocks. I was going along at a pretty good pace when with my right leg I stepped awkwardly on a rock twisting my ankle and I heard a pop. I stopped suddenly and my heart sank. Did I just do it again? Did I just sprain my ankle do I need to push my SOS button. Fortunately I seemingly had no pain and after a few moments of testing everything out to make sure I was okay I was able to continue on without any issues.
The rain continued on and off all afternoon quite annoyingly. I would get dry just in time for the rain to start again. Much more rain that I believe the forecast called for. But I did get to see two rainbows. So i guess that’s something.
I had reception in the late afternoon so I’ve called and booked a hotel in Idyllwild for my first zero. I should arrive early Wednesday and get to spend two well earned nights in a real bed! I was desperately trying to avoid arring in Idyllwild on the weekend because the prices are more than double the weekday prices and it appears I will have succeeded!
I should have stopped when the sun was out and I was dried off from the earlier rain and I passed nice camping spots. But alas I did not. I kept going and the rain started again and when I was finally done my camp site selection was less than ideal.
I managed to keep everything inside the tent dry as I set up for the night. If I can do 15 miles before 1500 hrs I’ll get to paradise valley caffee for what is known as the best burgers on trail. It will have to be an early morning to be successful.
Today’s plan called for less mileage, a resupply and some town food. A pretty solid plan! I was treated to a brisk morning and beautiful colorful sunrise over Warner Springs Meadow as I walked towards town. This really is a beautiful part of the PCT.
The first quick stop was Eagle Rock. So named because of its very close resemblance to an Eagle. I arrived just as the morning sun started to shine on it and was otherwise alone. This is a popular day hike and as I walked to town I was passed by about 80 of them hiking towards Eagle Rock. They were part of a group doing a fundraiser event for Children’s Make A Wish. They all smelled so clean.
Warner Springs gas station!
There isn’t much in Warner Springs. A post office, a gas station and a community center that has almost everything a hiker needs. Back in 2018 you could camp at the community center but that is no longer aloud. The post office and gas station are about 2 miles from the community center. I started at the gas station by devouring 3 hot dogs and some cola. Judy is a Saint and even though it was 8am was more than happy to whip them up for me. I picked up my resupply from the post office and bought a few more things from the gas station and made my way to the community center.
Sorting out my resupply! Food for the next 4ish days.
The community center has almost everything a hiker needs. They have a small store, showers, bucket laundry, charging stations and washrooms. I had my first shower in a week and it was glorious. Until this year they were bucket showers but they just had shower heads installed with nice hot water. I did my laundry and hung it on the fence and passed time chatting with other hikers waiting for everything to dry and stretching.
I left in the mid afternoon and did another 5 miles, finishing the meadows and starting the next climb. Technically today was not a nearo (day with less than 10 miles hiked normally as a result of spending time in town) but I’ll probably count it as one.
The weather is suppose to be cooler the next few days with a chance of light rain tomorrow and Monday. I’m looking forward to the cooler weather (not the low single degree mornings that come with it) and rain would certainly be appreciated by Californians.
When doing laundry a thru hiker typically wears their rain gear as everything else is getting cleaned.
I camped alone last night and I finally got a decent night sleep which was great. I won’t lie today was a tough day for me. I think one of the things that frustrates me about the PCT is that it takes the longest possible way to get anywhere. Now it does so to avoid steep climbs. But sometime it’s just ridiculous. I make good time to the Third Gate water cache which is a very reliable cache. Without water caches this stretch would be extremely difficult requiring an almost 30 mile water carry.
I hit 10 miles for the day around 11 o’clock and found a small piece of shade for lunch. I have not been eating enough and I think that is playing into the foul mood I currently have. The second part of the day was mostly downhill as I walked towards the S-2. Mel and I drove past this exact same spot on our way back to San Diego from Joshua Tree. I was really hoping for some trail magic to lighten my mood but alas there was none.
I walked a few more miles through the Warner Springs Meadows which was a nice change of scenery. This put me in real good position to be at the post office in Warner Springs when it opens tomorrow to get my resupply.
I crossed the 100 mile marker today and I’m really proud of making it this far as quick as i have! Next goal is Idyllwild (mile 179) where I plan on getting a hotel room and having a well deserved rest day!
The sound of air being let out of the mattress marks when a thruhiker has committed to getting out of bed, packing up camp and hitting the trail. Once the air has been let out there really isn’t any going back. You could continue to lie on the cold hard ground in your tent or I suppose you could refill your air mattress… but really once the air is out, there is no other option but to get at it.
I was hiking by 0600 am as the sun rose through the mountain valley. It was incredibly beautiful. The air was cool and the light clouds in the sky had me optimistic about today’s weather. The morning was mostly downhill on hard packed less rocky dirt so I made excellent time. Almost hitting 10 miles before 10 am. 10 before 10 is a common thruhikibg saying / goal.
I’m writing this but unsure if I will share this misfortune I had. Using the washroom in the backcountry for a deuce can be a challenging affair. Until this point including all 200 miles I walked in 2018 I have never had to do so on trail. First you must find somewhere private which is surprisingly not the easiest. We all share the same 2 feet of dirt trail and most of the time that’s the only path there is. This private spot must also have dirt loose enough to dig a “cathole”. This also can be challenging in this rocky landscape. Now fortunately I found just the place! Unfortunately I did not drop the bomb on the target. Even more unfortunate was loosing my balance and stepping on the landmine… ugh. Well I suppose I signed up for this.
Water cache at Scissors Crossing
I had been debating all day if I would go into Julian which is a very popular trail town or just continue to make miles. I need to be in Warner Springs (mile 109) on Saturday before the post office closes for my resupply box or I’ll have to wait until it opens Monday. I decided as long as the water cache under the scissors crossing bridge had water then I would continue on my way. The water cache here is reliably maintained and there are regular shuttles into town. I arrived to find plenty of water and a cooler with cold Gatoraid and beer. As much as the beer was temping i decided to stick with the electrolyte improving beverage. Many thanks to the trail angels that take care of this spot.
I filled up with 6 liters and headed on my way. The next few miles were all uphill and the clouds had given way to a bright sunny day. Fortunately the wind was strong enough to keep me relatively cool. I made slow but steady progress. Almost everyone must have gone into town because I didn’t see anyone else all day.
Don’t piss these guys off!
I had my second rattle snake encounter. Fortunately this time it gave me lots of warning! It was refused to leave its sunny spot directly beside the trail so I had to climb around on the right of it. Giving it enough space but still allowing me to keep an eye on its location.
After 21 miles my body said no more and I found a nice campsite sheltered from the wind.
Turns out my tent was slanted way past any reasonable level of comfort last night. As a result I slept sparingly despite being completely exhausted. I was up and hiking at 06:38 a little sore from yesterday’s miles but nothing I couldn’t suffer through.
I made good time to the Pioneer Mall picnic area and took my first and only real break of the day. Past this point dispersed camping is once again allowed. The rest of the day was spent searching for shade from the cloudless sky where none could be found.
Leaving the picnic area I was treated to an incredible view of the desert landscape and mountains. I got my first glimpse of Mount San Jacinto which I will climb in a week or so time. At least the lack of any real tree to provide shade allowed for prime viewing of this landscape. The trail here is very rocky which is primarily annoying when I step on pointy rocks where my blister is.
12 miles into my day I arrived at the first water source at the sunrise trail head. Since I knew I was going to be dry camping (camping without any water source) I made the decision to carry 6 liters (the most I can carry). I drank an additional liter before heading on my way. My pack was heavy but I feel like it was worth it to not have to stress about water today and tomorrow morning. The next water source from here is another 13.4 miles.
About a mile or two down the trail after filling up my water I was given the scare of my life. I was walking along, minding my own business when suddenly from under a bush less than 1 foot away from where I just stepped a rattle snake started rattling its tail. I jumped forward with a surge of adrenaline. There have been more rattle snakes on the trail this year due to the heat. I have been trying my best to keep an eye out. When I listen to music I only have one earbud in and it’s on low. I don’t think there was anyway I could have spotted this fellow. Fortunately it slithered away without incident and fortunately I did not soil myself.
I spend my day mostly listening to music and thinking about literal nonsense. But whatever it takes to make the miles go by!
I’ve definitely seen a few more people on trail today than the last few days. Not much conversation other than friendly hellos and pleasantries. I’m sure I’ll get the chance to meet plenty of these hiker trash along the way!
PCT Day 3 – Boulder Oaks Camp Ground to Laguna campground
Early bird gets the town food.
Start mileage: 25.0
End mileage: 47.5
Non PCT miles: 0.7
Total: 22.2 miles / 35.7 km
Total elevation gain: 4504
Steps: 52651
Hiking before the sunrise!
I was up bright and early to start the climb to Mount Laguna and hopefully beat some of the heat. Mount Laguna is a very small town that sits at 6000 ft elevation And it is all uphill from boulder oaks camp ground. The weather forecast wasn’t too hot but there wasn’t going to be a single cloud in the sky so I decided an early start was best. Town food was calling my name and everything closes early! I was making good miles as the sun started to rise and hiked alone throughout the day stopping for a quick breakfast and again to rest in the shade during the worst of the heat.
Cleveland National Forest – Dispersed camping not allowed in this area!
Throughout the day I heard and saw several military aircraft flying in the area. I’m sure there must be some military bases relatively close by. Which might explain the warning sign about unexploded ordinance I passed by.
The last mile or two at 6000 ft is in an actual pine tree forest that provided a welcome relief from the sun. Walking through i could faintly smell the pine and remembered the smell clearly from 2018. I arrived at Pine House cafe with plenty of time to spare! There have definitely been some renovations here and I was surprised to hear French music playing as I sat down at my table. It is now owned by a French couple from France. I think the waiter was equally surprised when I ordered my meal in French. I absolutely destroyed the burger and fries.
I did a quick resupply at the store and contemplated my options for the night. In this area you are not allowed to disperse camp. That is to say for about 20 miles of the PCT in Cleveland National Forest you can only camp at maintained (car camping) camp sites. The camp site in Mount Laguna its self only opens late April leaving only one more 6 miles out of town. Other options include overpriced bunkhouses and lodge.
I was feeling good and thought I still had enough in the tank to get me to the next camp ground so I made the less comfortable decision and went on my way. In 2018 I took my first zero in Mount Laguna – I was struggling hard and wanted a warm cozy bed a shower and clean clothes. This time around I elect for the hard way and don’t regret it (much).
The trail to the campground was mostly downhill and had some beautiful vistas. It’s really too bad your not legally aloud to camp In many of the places I saw. I arrived at camp with just enough time to set up my tent before it started to get dark and I am exhausted! The only regret I have is that I’m not set up on the flattest of ground. So it might not be the best sleep.
I’m really proud of my 22.2 mile day today but it has resulted in one blister on my right foot that will surely be a pain for the next few days. I’ll probably try and take it a bit easier tomorrow.
