PCT Day 114 – Bobby Lake (1919.2) to PCT Mile 1951.8
July 26, 2026
Total PCT miles: 32.6
Non PCT miles: 0.3
Total: 32.9 miles / 52.9 km
Total elevation gain: 3996 ft
Total elevation loss: 4068 ft
Steps: 74290
Remaining Distance: 703.2 miles
The alarm went off early as usual, and before long I was back on the trail. From the first few miles I could tell it was going to be a good day. My legs felt strong, nothing was really hurting, and the terrain was some of the gentlest I’ve seen in quite a while. Days like this are dangerous—they make it almost too easy to keep walking.
Before long I entered another large burn area. Unlike some of the previous fire scars I’ve walked through, almost nothing had grown back here. It felt more like hiking through a desert than a forest, with blackened tree trunks standing like skeletons across the landscape. As bleak as it looked, the lack of trees opened up incredible views of the Three Sisters towering on the horizon. It was easily the best scenery of the day and a reminder that even landscapes shaped by wildfire can have their own kind of beauty.
Later in the morning I met the support crew for someone attempting the Fastest Known Time (FKT) across the Oregon section of the Pacific Crest Trail. They’re aiming to complete the entire state in just six days. an absolutely mind-blowing pace when I think about how much effort it takes me to hike one good day. A little while later, while I was stopped filtering water, the runner flew by. There wasn’t much time for conversation before he disappeared up the trail, but it was incredible to witness someone moving at that speed.
Not long after, I officially entered the Three Sisters Wilderness. The scenery continued to improve as I passed countless small lakes and ponds scattered through the forest. They seemed to appear around every corner, each one calm enough to perfectly reflect the surrounding trees and mountains.
My original plan had been to spend the night at Dumbbell Lake, but when I arrived there were already several non-PCT hikers camped around the shoreline. Rather than squeeze into an already busy campsite, I decided to keep going. Since I was still feeling good, it seemed like the right decision.
Original PCT trail makers. First one I’ve seen on the trail. Likley from the 70s
That extra push turned into something I never expected. When I finally stopped for the evening, my watch read 32.9 miles—a new personal record on the Pacific Crest Trail. If you had told me back in Southern California that I’d one day hike nearly 33 miles and still feel good, I probably wouldn’t have believed you.
To top it all off, I camped beside an actual flowing stream. It might sound funny to get excited about something so ordinary, but after so many stagnant ponds and carefully rationed water carries, hearing moving water again was surprisingly refreshing.
If everything goes according to plan, tomorrow I’ll make my way into Bend. A shower, some real food, and a little time in town are sounding pretty good right now.
PCT Day 113 – Shelter Cove (1909.2) to Bobby Lake (1919.2)
July 25, 2026
Total PCT miles: 10.0
Non PCT miles: 2.0
Total: 12.0 miles / 19.3 km
Total elevation gain: 2041 ft
Total elevation loss: 1444 ft
Steps: 29549
Remaining Distance: 735.8 miles
It was a slow start to the morning and a lazy start to the day. Just what I needed after back to back near 30 mile days. I was still up around 630 but when your used to getting up around 430 it felt wonderful. I had my first shower in a week and did laundry. I almost felt like a new man.
The restaurant opens at 0800 and I ordered two breakfast plates. The hiker hunger hit me hard. I probably could have eaten a third but I settled for ice cream and chips. I picked up my resupply box and finished what chores I could get done.
Throughout the morning several other hikers showed up. I spoke with Heaps who is currently on her 4th thru-hike of the PCT and to two hikers attempting a calander year triple crown. This is when you hike the AT, PCT and CDT in one calander year. One of the two had been attempting to do ten thousand miles in a calendar year but has had to slow down. I was encouraged by the fact they all said Oregon gets a lot better after Elk lake which is only 40 ish or so miles from here.
I’m really only still on this trail because I’m too stubborn to quit. Several other hikers I spoke with all shared similar feelings. So at least I’m not alone in how negative I am currently feeling.
I finally got everything together and found the energy to get moving shortly after 1200. My next planned stop is Big Lake where I have another resupply box waiting. It should take 3-4 days but I might go into Sisters or Bend before that.
Instead of pushing myself today I decided to call it after 10 PCT miles at Bobby lake. The next water source is another 6 miles from here and I didn’t feel like hiking that today. There are two groups of weekend campers here. One has been section hiking the Oregon PCT over the last few years and also assured me the trail gets much more interesting after Elk lake.
Shelter cove was an excellent stop. The staff were amazing, the food was good and I really needed a chance connect with other hikers even if it was just for a few hours.
PCT Day 112 – PCT mile 1879.8 to Shelter Cove (1909.2)
July 24, 2026
Total PCT miles: 28.4
Non PCT miles: 1.3
Total: 29.7 miles / 47.8 km
Total elevation gain: 4035 ft
Total elevation loss: 5039 ft
Steps: 68024
Remaining Distance: 745.8 miles
For a number of reasons It’s getting difficult to write these blog posts. Over the past 7 days I have hiked 186.6 miles or 300.3 kilometers. To be honest the trail has been fairly boring during this time. At the end of the day I’m exhausted and just want to eat and sleep. Most of the day I’m in almost a trance like state staring at the ground so I don’t trip over a rock or stick or my own two feet. Add in my generally not so positive general mood and well words become hard.
Today the goal was to get to Shelter Cove Resort before the store and restaurant closes at 1900 hours. Ideally earlier so I could actually make use of said store and restaurant. I have a resupply box here as well that has my next 4 days of food in it. I’ll actually arrive a day earlier than I had planned which is nice.
I left camp at 0530 after filling up water from the cache. I think I’ve used caches just as much in Oregon as I did in the desert. Which is wild to me.
The day started with the first of two 1500 ft climbs. For a change I was actually cold this morning. Not that it was actually cold but it was certainly damp. My tent was soaked with condensation as it has been the last few nights dispite the generally warm temperatures. I even hiked for about a mile with my fleece on. I reached the top of the ridge and the wind was blowing fairly hard and I actually again felt cold. There were some decent views that were somewhat obscured by smoke.
The wildfire situation seems to be getting worse everyday. There are massive fires burning in Oregon and Washington but as of yet the only ones directly impacting the trail are in Washington which includes the closure of the trail to both the northern terminus and the “alternate terminus”.
I made my only real stop of the day at Summit Lake, about 12 miles into the day, for lunch and to dry out my tent. I had barely drank any water. In fact the last few days I’ve drank less than I normally would. I wonder if this is because I’m getting more acclimatized to the heat or if I’m just too much in the aforementioned trance like state.
From here it was another climb in through Diamond Peak wilderness. Several day / weekend hikers passed by going South Bound. There were lots of ponds and small lakes off the trail that I suppose one could explore but time was ticking to get to Shelter Cove.
I got into Shelter Cove just before 1800 with plenty of time to eat real food and drink cold coke. There were actually several other PCT hikers here. This is a busy place with tons of people camping over the weekend. There is a very nice PCT campsite an a sheltered area where we can chill and charge electronics and have access to the WiFi. I did not have time to shower or do laundry which I will do tomorrow. I’ll also get my resupply box tomorrow. I’m hoping to get back on trail around noonish. After a breakfast and lunch.
My next box is at Big Lake which is 90 ish miles. But I may go into Bend. To be determined.
I’m doing what I have been doing from day one taking it one resupply stop at a time and trying my best to embrace the suck of it all.
I have to admit, Oregon hasn’t been quite what I expected so far.
After the incredible scenery of the Sierra and even Northern California, I thought crossing into Oregon would bring another dramatic change in landscape. Instead, much of the trail has been winding through long stretches of forest with only the occasional opening. It’s still beautiful, just in a quieter way. I think my expectations were probably a little too high after everything the trail has shown me over the past few months.
The highlight of the day came early when Mount Thielsen came into view. Its sharp, jagged summit stands out from everything around it and made for easily the best scenery of the day. Knowing the next reliable water was a long way off, I filled every bottle I had, carrying four litres away from the viewpoint. Somehow that water lasted me the next 22 miles all the way to camp, which is probably pushing my luck more than I’d like to admit.
The rest of the day settled into a familiar rhythm. I leapfrogged Oscar a few times, crossed paths with two southbound hikers, and otherwise had the trail almost entirely to myself.
Oregon has felt surprisingly lonely compared to California. There are long stretches where hours pass without seeing another person, leaving plenty of time to think while the miles quietly tick away beneath your feet. Today I hiked pass the highest point on the PCT in Oregon and Washington. Here I thought Washington would be higher.
By the end of the afternoon I realized I was feeling much stronger than I had expected. When I started the day, I never imagined I’d be knocking on the door of a 30-mile day, but somehow I rolled into camp at mile 1879.8 with 29.9 miles completed. It was one of those satisfying reminders that sometimes your body is capable of more than your mind gives it credit for.
Camp for the night was at a water cache, and waiting there was a cooler with just two cold drinks left inside. After nearly 30 miles on a warm day, I don’t think I’ve ever appreciated a cold drink quite so much.
If everything goes according to plan, tomorrow should bring me into Shelter Cove a day earlier than scheduled.
Unfortunately, there was also some discouraging news today. The Ptarmigan Fire has forced the closure of the Pacific Crest Trail approaching the Northern Terminus. Canada still feels a long way away, but it’s strange knowing that the finish line is currently inaccessible.
Hopefully firefighters are able to get the fire under control and the trail can reopen before I get there. But that’s not normally what happens with remote fires that have no immediate impact to critical infrastructure. For now, all I can do is keep walking north and hope the situation improves over the coming weeks.
PCT Day 110 – Crater Lake (1822.4) to PCT Mile 1849.9 via Rim Alternate
July 23, 2026
Total PCT miles: 9.2
Non PCT miles: 11.4
Total: 20.6 miles / 33.2 km
Total elevation gain: 1998 ft
Total elevation loss: 3133 ft
Steps: 47919
Remaining Distance: 805.1 miles
I really enjoyed sleeping in this morning. The restaurant in the park opens at 0700 and I wasn’t planning on missing it. I got up around 7, packed my gear and was patiently waiting for them to open. I met Oscar here and we enjoyed breakfast together. Both of us remarking on how empty the trail is. He’s hiking much faster than me unfortunately But it was nice to just talk with someone for a while.
After breakfast I decided I would hit the easy button and took the shuttle from the campground to rim village. This saved me a few miles and the climb up to the rim. Most PCT hikers take the Rim Alternate trail and not the official PCT through Crater Lake. The reason is simple, if you stay on the PCT you don’t ever get to see Crater Lake and it is definitely something worth seeing.
The best part about the Rim Alternate is that almost none of the regular visitors Venture more than 100 meters from where they park their cars. So you get these beautiful vistas all to yourself. I’m guessing the winds shifted because over the last few days they have had a lot of smoke from the forest fires but not today. I took my time (when not in crowds) and almost felt A little like a tourist myself at times.
Crater Lake really is one of those places that lives up to the hype. Formed nearly 7,700 years ago when the volcano Mount Mazama catastrophically erupted and collapsed in on itself, the lake is now the deepest in the United States at 1,943 feet (592 metres). What struck me most wasn’t its size, though—it was the colour. The water is such an impossibly deep shade of blue that it almost doesn’t look real. With no rivers flowing into it, the lake is fed almost entirely by rain and snow, making it one of the clearest lakes in the world. After weeks of hiking through forests, deserts, and burn scars, standing on the rim and looking out over Crater Lake felt like one of those moments that reminds you exactly why you’re out here.
After leaving Crater Lake the trail leading back to and joining the PCT was some of the flattest trail I think I’ve hiked. Even with the gentle terrane I was not moving anywhere near as fast as I should be able to now. I feel generally weak and tired.
There is no water for an extended period but fortunately there are two water caches after leaving the park. One 5 miles out and another 7 miles after that. Thank you to the trail angles who keep these stocked!
PCT Day 109 – PCT mile 1800.8 to Crater Lake (1822.4)
July 22, 2026
Total PCT miles: 21.6
Non PCT miles: 1.0
Total: 22.6 miles / 36.4 km
Total elevation gain: 2838 ft
Total elevation loss: 3592 ft
Steps: 51879
Remaining Distance: 832.6 miles
I slept well, not long enough… not sure long enough sleep or rested is really a thing anymore. Other than a few water sources that are really close to where I am camped and a pond that’s off trail that doesn’t sound very appealing there is no water until I get to Crater Lake. So 22.6 miles, with temperatures around 25 degrees and most of the day is through a burn scar. I made the decision to carry 5 liters… thankfully I’m almost out of food.
The day started by navigating a series of blowdowns by channeling my inner American ninja warrior. The blow downs would continue on and off with various degrees of difficulty until I arrived at the National Park Boundry (15ish miles). Just prior to entering the park I saw the first other human being I’ve seen in 36 hours.
Most of the day was spent walking through a burn scar. Not sure which fire or when it was but based on how tall the new trees are it happened before the others I have walked through.
I reached the national park boundry and hiked the final miles into Mazama Village arriving at 1530. I had dinner at the restaurant (it was okay), got my resupply box (thank goodness I sent one here) and headed to the PCT campground. The campground only cost 5$ per night. Which I’m assuming is a good deal compared to the regular sites. There is no cell reception here so to use the interweb you need to hang out at the store. Tomorrow I’ll actually walk the trail around Crater Lake.
Today was a tough day for me mentally. I’m physically and mentally exhausted and just feel done. It’s been 109 days and I’m tired of being sore and tired and having a hard time embracing the suck. The heat, long water carries, big miles, promise of upcoming wildfire smoke, the consistent pain, low energy, missing home and the boredom really took its toll on me today. I’ll say it- I want to be done. This has been building over a while but it really hit me today.
Now I’m not saying I’m leaving the trail… at least not yet. One of the things I promised myself was not to make rash decisions or quit on a bad day. So tomorrow I’ll treat myself to a real breakfast at the restaurant and head on my way.