I camped alone last night and I finally got a decent night sleep which was great. I won’t lie today was a tough day for me. I think one of the things that frustrates me about the PCT is that it takes the longest possible way to get anywhere. Now it does so to avoid steep climbs. But sometime it’s just ridiculous. I make good time to the Third Gate water cache which is a very reliable cache. Without water caches this stretch would be extremely difficult requiring an almost 30 mile water carry.
I hit 10 miles for the day around 11 o’clock and found a small piece of shade for lunch. I have not been eating enough and I think that is playing into the foul mood I currently have. The second part of the day was mostly downhill as I walked towards the S-2. Mel and I drove past this exact same spot on our way back to San Diego from Joshua Tree. I was really hoping for some trail magic to lighten my mood but alas there was none.
I walked a few more miles through the Warner Springs Meadows which was a nice change of scenery. This put me in real good position to be at the post office in Warner Springs when it opens tomorrow to get my resupply.
I crossed the 100 mile marker today and I’m really proud of making it this far as quick as i have! Next goal is Idyllwild (mile 179) where I plan on getting a hotel room and having a well deserved rest day!
Turns out my tent was slanted way past any reasonable level of comfort last night. As a result I slept sparingly despite being completely exhausted. I was up and hiking at 06:38 a little sore from yesterday’s miles but nothing I couldn’t suffer through.
I made good time to the Pioneer Mall picnic area and took my first and only real break of the day. Past this point dispersed camping is once again allowed. The rest of the day was spent searching for shade from the cloudless sky where none could be found.
Leaving the picnic area I was treated to an incredible view of the desert landscape and mountains. I got my first glimpse of Mount San Jacinto which I will climb in a week or so time. At least the lack of any real tree to provide shade allowed for prime viewing of this landscape. The trail here is very rocky which is primarily annoying when I step on pointy rocks where my blister is.
12 miles into my day I arrived at the first water source at the sunrise trail head. Since I knew I was going to be dry camping (camping without any water source) I made the decision to carry 6 liters (the most I can carry). I drank an additional liter before heading on my way. My pack was heavy but I feel like it was worth it to not have to stress about water today and tomorrow morning. The next water source from here is another 13.4 miles.
About a mile or two down the trail after filling up my water I was given the scare of my life. I was walking along, minding my own business when suddenly from under a bush less than 1 foot away from where I just stepped a rattle snake started rattling its tail. I jumped forward with a surge of adrenaline. There have been more rattle snakes on the trail this year due to the heat. I have been trying my best to keep an eye out. When I listen to music I only have one earbud in and it’s on low. I don’t think there was anyway I could have spotted this fellow. Fortunately it slithered away without incident and fortunately I did not soil myself.
I spend my day mostly listening to music and thinking about literal nonsense. But whatever it takes to make the miles go by!
I’ve definitely seen a few more people on trail today than the last few days. Not much conversation other than friendly hellos and pleasantries. I’m sure I’ll get the chance to meet plenty of these hiker trash along the way!
PCT Day 3 – Boulder Oaks Camp Ground to Laguna campground
Early bird gets the town food.
Start mileage: 25.0
End mileage: 47.5
Non PCT miles: 0.7
Total: 22.2 miles / 35.7 km
Total elevation gain: 4504
Steps: 52651
Hiking before the sunrise!
I was up bright and early to start the climb to Mount Laguna and hopefully beat some of the heat. Mount Laguna is a very small town that sits at 6000 ft elevation And it is all uphill from boulder oaks camp ground. The weather forecast wasn’t too hot but there wasn’t going to be a single cloud in the sky so I decided an early start was best. Town food was calling my name and everything closes early! I was making good miles as the sun started to rise and hiked alone throughout the day stopping for a quick breakfast and again to rest in the shade during the worst of the heat.
Cleveland National Forest – Dispersed camping not allowed in this area!
Throughout the day I heard and saw several military aircraft flying in the area. I’m sure there must be some military bases relatively close by. Which might explain the warning sign about unexploded ordinance I passed by.
The last mile or two at 6000 ft is in an actual pine tree forest that provided a welcome relief from the sun. Walking through i could faintly smell the pine and remembered the smell clearly from 2018. I arrived at Pine House cafe with plenty of time to spare! There have definitely been some renovations here and I was surprised to hear French music playing as I sat down at my table. It is now owned by a French couple from France. I think the waiter was equally surprised when I ordered my meal in French. I absolutely destroyed the burger and fries.
I did a quick resupply at the store and contemplated my options for the night. In this area you are not allowed to disperse camp. That is to say for about 20 miles of the PCT in Cleveland National Forest you can only camp at maintained (car camping) camp sites. The camp site in Mount Laguna its self only opens late April leaving only one more 6 miles out of town. Other options include overpriced bunkhouses and lodge.
I was feeling good and thought I still had enough in the tank to get me to the next camp ground so I made the less comfortable decision and went on my way. In 2018 I took my first zero in Mount Laguna – I was struggling hard and wanted a warm cozy bed a shower and clean clothes. This time around I elect for the hard way and don’t regret it (much).
The trail to the campground was mostly downhill and had some beautiful vistas. It’s really too bad your not legally aloud to camp In many of the places I saw. I arrived at camp with just enough time to set up my tent before it started to get dark and I am exhausted! The only regret I have is that I’m not set up on the flattest of ground. So it might not be the best sleep.
I’m really proud of my 22.2 mile day today but it has resulted in one blister on my right foot that will surely be a pain for the next few days. I’ll probably try and take it a bit easier tomorrow.
PCT Day 2 – Hauser to Boulder Oaks Camp Ground (mile 26)
The desert is dirty
April 6. 2026
Start mileage: 15.4
End mileage: 26.0
Non PCT miles: 0.2
Total: 10.9 miles / 17.5 kms
I slept well and woke up at 05:00 am feeling a lot less sore than I anticipated. I forgot how dirty the desert section of the PCT is. I’ve been out here one day and everything is either covered in dirt or dried sweat. I wonder how much dirt the average PCT hiker eats on a thru hike?
The first 700 miles of the PCT is called the desert section. Although very little of it is true desert. Rather it is technically chaparral:
The chaparral is a Mediterranean shrubland biome primarily located in California, Baja California, and parts of Southern Oregon, characterized by mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. It is dominated by dense, woody shrubs like manzanita and chamise, and it is highly adapted to fire, with significant threats arising from climate change and increased, human-caused fire frequencies.
View coming into Lake Morena
It was a cool morning that allowed me to make quick work of the notorious clime out of Hauser canyon. Some say this climb is the worst a thru-hiker needs to complete before San Jacinto and is why most hikers camp at Hauser. The cool morning along with my desire to destroy a breakfast burrito in Lake Morena kept me going at a fairly good pace.
Mmm burrito
The Lake Morena Malt Shop is a must stop on the PCT and provides an excellent opportunity to eat some real food and have a cold drink. The burrito certainly hit the spot.
I left town and happens upon two trail angels handing out cold drinks. I could not resist. They hiked the PCT in 2021 and shared some stories of their experience during the first post COVID year.
Along the path I came across a San Diego county employee who was doing tick surveilance. He said the ticks in the area are not too bad and has only found one today. Very few of the ticks they test have Lyme but I’m sure they carry other diseases.
The morning clouds eventually gave way to big bright hot sunny skies as I came into Boulder Oaks campground. My plan had been to hike about another 7 miles all up hill to Cibbets Camp ground. I was feeling sore and tired and the beginnings of a blister on my right foot. So I decided to do something I rarely do and stop here for the night and enjoy an afternoon of relaxing. What a strange concept.
I’m camped here with 5 other hikers and have only seen 4 or 5 others go by. Certainly does not feel crowded out here. As luck would have it another trail angel drove by and handed out more cold drinks. A DOUBLE TRAIL angel day!This trail angel is spending his first year of retirement doing trail magic. He plans on following the heard up the trail helping hikers where they need it the most. Currently he is shuttling hikers from San Diego to the Southern Terminus then pops by some of the more popular camp sites on his way back.
Definitely some interesting people out here including A 71 year old who used to fish king crab in the bearing sea and knows most of the people that were in Deadliest Catch. Quote of the day came from this 18 year old hiking the trail in jeans, no cell phone, beat up backpack, home hardware tarp and cowboy hat. “Going to a concert and filming the whole thing on your phone is basically the same as going to a Shakespeare play and writing it all down.” Smart kid.
Tomorrow will be an even earlier day with a 1000 plus meter climb to get to Mount Laguna!
Today at 08:20 hrs I started my 2026 PCT thru-hike.
As expected I did not sleep well last night but remarkably managed to get about 5 ish hours before my alarm went off. Has my last shower for an unknown number of days and did my best to ensure every thing I intended to pack was indeed packed. I had a list, it was checked many more times than twice.
It took about 1 hour from our hotel to arrive at the PCT souther terminus. Here we were greated by two woman who work for the Pacific Crest Trail Association. They checked my permit (Mel had to get it out of my wallet as I was too stressed), provide some last minute trail information and provided a gentle leave no trace reminder. Maybe not surprisingly they said only 12 people had started today (50 permits a day are issued) and overall numbers on the trail have been down this year. I suppose the additional challenges of traveling to the US and the current state of the global economy likely have something to do with it.
Mexico US border wall
I took the customary photos with the terminus monument and the Mexican border wall (much larger and omnibus than last time I was hear) and said see you in 5 months to my fiancée. There were absolutely no tears involved. Then began my first steps on the PCT as my fiancée returned to the car to also start her journey back to Canada. Albeit the more conventional car-plane method. The parting was brief as the trail intersects the road ahead and I was there waiting for her when she drove past for a second good bye.
The first steps turned into the first mile and slowly I could feel the stress start to fade away. Or maybe it was being burned away by the sun as it baptized me most of the day in punishing fashion. As I was consuming my limited water at an alarming rate I decided to take my first break during the peak of the heat. I found a spot with one of the only two hikers I saw until arriving at Hauser and chatted for a while. Fortunately during the afternoon a light breeze picked up making it much more pleasant.
I was optimistic that I would be able to replenish my water at mile 14 at a new water cache that a trail angel has been maintaining. You should never rely on water caches and I thought my 5 liters would be enough for the day plus dry camping and into town tomorrow but I was likely wrong. I was very appreciative when I arrived and found many tens of gallons of water.
From here it was a short downhill hike to camp. Here only the sounds of insects are present and I hope this leads to a better sleep than last night.
Tomorrow brings a 4 mile walk with significant elevation gain into Lake Moreno where a breakfast burrito has my name on it.
One mile down only a couple few to go. Class of 2026 poster at CLEFF camp ground where many hikes spend the night before starting the trail Two miles in.Train tracks at mile 4Nice place for a rest This sun umbrella was a last minute purchase. Current me is thanking past me for this decision. Water cache at mile 14First campsite – this is where everything really gets dirty.
